I was not too surprised when the first words out of ocean rower Roz Savage’s mouth this week when she set foot on land for the first time in five months was, “Never again!”
She left from the west coast of Australia on the first of May, and, 4,000 miles later, stepped ashore on the tiny island of Mauritius. Her route had been kept a secret during most of the journey for concerns about potential wandering pirates, but to-date no African pirates have traveled that far south for booty.
Safe from pirates, she was clearly wracked mentally and physically by the challenges of daily rowing and being confined to a 23-foot-by-six-foot rowboat for more than 150 days. “The rowing is almost a means to an end,” she told CNET when she arrived. “It’s certainly not something I love for its own sake. I find it very challenging. So it really is about the blogging and the tweeting, and trying to create an appreciation of the oceans.” Her mother and expedition-organizer, Rita, greeted her on the dock in Grand Baie.
Having successfully rowed across portions of the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian oceans, Roz had talked about completing her ’round-the-world journey, begun in 2005, by rowing west-to-east across the Atlantic in time to join the opening ceremonies of the 2012 Olympics in London.
Apparently, these recent months strapped into her hard seat, eating mostly brown and green mush, have cured her (at least for now) of future rowing attempts. Even before she hit land, in her blog she formally announced that she was “retired.”
…occasionally, a faint fear that this ocean really would go on forever and I would never make landfall. But I survived, and what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.
“I want to get more ‘hands-on’ with my campaigning,” she said, which will include books and films and presentations about her experiences. Admittedly being out in the middle of the sea makes it hard to accomplish those kind of goals; but, as the great painter of paradise Gauguin was told by his Paris-based agent, if you’re not out there, your value lessens. So it will be interesting to see the ups and downs Roz’s future adventuring takes.
Seemingly physically healthy, she admitted her craft, the Sedna, had taken a pretty bad beating. “Not a single piece of electronic equipment is fully functional. Even the electrical system itself is working courtesy only of a few inches of electrical tape and a rhino clip.”
In the quiet days before hitting land, Roz made up a list of her own highlights and lowlights, which she dubbed “Roz’s Effing Guide to Eat-Pray-Row.” Some highlights:
Within the first few days, in rough weather off the coast of Western Australia, it became apparent that my brand-new locker hatches lacked one vital feature —keeping water out. Maybe that cost extra. Concerned that my watermaker would not respond well to being flooded, I decided to pull in at Geraldton for pre-emptive work to relocate the watermaker pump. Unfortunately, I picked a holiday weekend, and it must have been a slow one for news, because it all turned into a big hullaballoo, which was most embarrassing.
Early in the row, we had a craze for limericks. Never before has the English language been so misused in the search for rhymes, and the less said about some of them, the better. However, some of them were quite good. My favorite came from Joan Sherwood in Atlanta:
There was a young rower named Roz
Whose oars were quite rough on her paws
But she pulled on tenaciously
And thanked sponsors quite graciously
After all it was for a great cause.
I also have to thank Joan for proposing that readers send in their jokes to keep my spirits up. The response was incredible!
Eating alone at sea is a wonderful excuse for “kiddy cooking”—taking
various yummy things and mixing them together into unlikely combinations that I would never consider eating in polite company. I had an additional excuse on this voyage, as it became evident early on that the voyage would take longer than was expected, and I might run low on food. So I had to make sure that every calorie on board was put to good use. A last-minute sponsorship had put 12 tins of Red Feather canned butter in the store cupboard, so just about everything got slathered in butter.
Two of my best creations were Cococompote (aka Roz’s Purple Wonder Breakfast and Chocobutter (Wilderness Family Naturals hot chocolate + butter + salt). Other favorites were Karen Morss’s Lemon Ladies marmalade and plum jam, Samudra nuts (especially the Cosmic Love Clusters) and the “mock turkey” and “pizza base” rawfood crackers made especially for me by ROAR Foods. And, of course, I couldn’t cross an ocean without my trusty Larabars and bean sprouts.
Five Favorite Audiobooks
Man’s Search For Meaning (Viktor Frankl) —deep, meaningful, and inspiring
Change of Heart (Jodi Picoult)—thought-provoking fiction about the things we choose to believe
The Power of One (Bryce Courtenay)—an autobiographical insight into South Africa, hard-hitting yet funny
Straight Man (Richard Russo)— laugh out loud hilarious, great characters
All of the Maisie Dobbs books (Jacqueline Winspear) —wonderful detective stories set in 1930s London
I hate to think of anything as a failure. Provided you learn something from it, it’s a success, right? But it started with an “f.” Or I suppose we could call this section “F***-ups”, but that’s a bit rude.
Even after the pit-stop in the Abrolhos, the electrical system was an ongoing source of stress. A control unit had developed a fault that required frequent attention, until it eventually failed completely. I overcame my fear of all things electrical, performed a triple bypass surgery on the unit, and had no further problems.
Other casualties included two tracking units, several iPods, 3 sets of
ear buds, and a GPS chart plotter. A capsize in high seas towards the end
of the voyage did me no favors, breaking two oars, two antennae (VHF
radio and Sea-Me radar enhancer) and shattering my wash bucket.
Yes, I’ve been afraid—numerous times. Flinching at the sound of onrushing waves, wondering if they are going to capsize the boat. Afraid that the electrical system would fail completely, disabling the electrical watermaker and forcing me back onto the manual version. And, occasionally, a faint fear that this ocean really would go on forever and I would never make landfall. But I survived, and what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.
(For the rest of my dispatches go to TakePart.com)
For the next two weeks I’ll be in the Maldives participating in a pair of very cool eco-symposiums. I’ve been to the Maldives three times before — the first, in 2005, on assignment for the New York Times post-tsunami (attached here) — and find it one of the best informational grounds for a variety of environmental issues currently challenging the world’s ocean. Obviously climate change and resulting rising seas are an every day concern in a place where 400,000 people live just a few feet above sea level. As are concerns about its vast system of coral reefs, which are suffering due to warming seas, and the impacts of overfishing even in a most-isolated part of the Indian Ocean. Check out the programs for both the first-ever WaterWoMen event to take place on Laamu atoll and the third annual S.L.O.W. Life Symposium at the Soneva Fushi resort. Both events are sponsored by the Six Senses Resorts and Spas and hosted by owner Sonu Shivdasani.
In person at the WaterWoMen event will be a mix of some of the world’s great ocean athletes (surfers, free divers, kite boarders, windsurfers) and ocean conservationists and non-profit thinkers; the S.L.O.W. Life Symposium will feature presentations by President Mohammed Nasheed of the Maldives, Sir Richard Branson, climate change writer Mark Lynas, Ashok Khosla, president of the International Union for the Conservation of Nature and many more. I’ll be posting from the Maldives for the next couple weeks, so please stay tuned!
In the 107 days that Brit Roz Savage has been at sea since leaving the coast of western Australia on April 30—attempting to row across the width of the Indian Ocean, solo—much has changed in the world: Osama Bin Laden took his last breath, Michelle Bachman officially became presidential fodder, Tim DeChristopher was still a free man and, in her home country, James Murdoch still expected to one day run the family business.
All that time, Roz has been afloat aboard her purple, 23-foot carbon-and-fiberglass rowboat, the Sedna Solo, enduring both the doldrums and 35-foot swells. By her own estimate, she’s only halfway home (her hoped-for landing point is still being kept secret, mostly to avoid curious pirates prowling the Indian Ocean). On day 106 she blogged that this is now officially the longest she’s been at sea (four previous adventures have taken her by oar across the Atlantic and Pacific oceans). Her previous longest was in 2009, when it took her 104 days to row from Hawaii to Kiribati.
Roz has managed to stay (mostly) upright in the past nearly four months and headed in essentially the right direction—winds and currents don’t always agree with her own hopes and plans—but there have been highs and lows. While keeping the electrical system alive—which allows her to recharge batteries for everything from the water maker to her satellite phone, laptop and iPhone—the constant wetness puts it continuously at risk. Without electricity, and the ability to blog or call her mother in England, she would be out there even more alone.
Some excerpts from Roz’s daily blog:
Day 17 (May 20): “Riding out a bout of thirty-plus knot winds might sound like a dangerously exciting, adrenaline-packed experience, but take it from me, it’s actually not. Or not on a rowboat, anyway.
“I am still convinced that my wind gauge underestimates the wind speed. Today it registered 20 knots, but I reckon it was 30 at least. This gauge is a Silva. Has anybody found a really good handheld gauge that you would recommend?
“With these kind of wind and waves running against me, all I can do is stick out the sea anchor and retreat to the Purple Palace and wait for things to improve, while watching my little icon on the GPS go somewhere I don’t want it to go. So I mostly leave the GPS turned off, as there’s nothing to be done about it until the wind shifts and/or subsides, and there’s no point in depressing myself.
“Today has been quite pleasantly lazy, which makes a nice change. Somebody once said, “One of life’s great pleasures is to be a little bit ill”, meaning that kind of mild illness when you really have no choice but to lie on the sofa all day. You’re ill enough to justify it, but still well enough to enjoy it. Riding out a storm on the sea anchor is much the same. Guilt-free indolence and a good chance to let my body recover. The main difference is that this particular ‘sofa’ has a nasty habit of lurching around somewhat violently.”
Day 54 (June 26): “I had a little star struck moment today, which boosted crew morale considerably. I had called Mum, as she’d texted to say that my transponder hadn’t updated my position for a few hours, and I wanted to reassure her that I was okay and to find out if it had started working again.
“We didn’t have a very good connection on the sat phone, so I was sure I must have misheard when Mum said that Anna Nicole Smith had posted a comment on my blog. This would have been very surprising, as a) I couldn’t imagine why a curvaceous starlet with a penchant for very rich, very old men, would be reading my blog, and b) she’s dead.
“So it made a lot more sense, although almost equally surprising, when Mum repeated the name: Alexander McCall Smith, author of Corduroy Mansions, the book that proved so wonderfully enjoyable and therapeutic after my trauma with the boat’s defective electrical system a few days ago. It is one of those books that is as comforting as a pair of old slippers, or, indeed, Belgian shoes (you’d have to read the book to understand that reference). The characters bore strong resemblances to people I know in real life, and the book mentioned one of my favourite London restaurants, La Poule Au Pot. It was all reassuringly familiar.”
Day 85: Barnacling (Photo: rozsavage.com)
Day 85 (July 28): “The trying times continue. I have now been stuck on the same small patch of ocean for the last 5 days. I advance a bit, the current pushes me back. I push again, the current pushes me back again. Repeat ad nauseam. I could use a good stiff breeze to help get me out of here. It will arrive eventually. But I don’t yet know when.
“Meanwhile, I decided that if today was not going to be a good day for miles, maybe it could be a good day in some other ways. I donned facemask and snorkel and hopped overboard to scrub barnacles.
“It didn’t really need doing, in truth. The rudder had a few outcrops of goosenecks, and there was a row of them along the chine (the pointy ridge that runs the length of the boat’s bottom), but other than that the hull was miraculously barnacle-free.
“Having got all salty during my dip, it seemed a good time to finally wash my hair. For the first time in nearly three months.”
Day 96 (August 5): “Three months. Phewee. It’s really quite a long time. If someone drew a boat-shaped outline on the floor, 23 feet by 6, and told you that you weren’t allowed outside it, nor was anybody else allowed inside it, for three months, it would sound a bit like—well, like solitary confinement. Then stick a rowing machine in the middle of it, and you’ve got solitary confinement with hard labour.
“The food is probably better than in prison (I’m guessing here, never having been in prison myself) but there’s nobody to serve it to me. This is a self-catering cell. The upside is that there is no jailer ordering me around, telling me what to do and when. Only my own conscience.
“As to whether this gives me a sense of freedom—I suppose that is up to me. I can look on it as “here I am, confined to this tiny boat for months at a time”, or I can take the positive view: “look at this huge sky, and this vast ocean, and nobody to get in the way of my view—wow!”
Day 105 (August 16): “A super-quick blog as this is the roughest day yet and I don’t want to keep the laptop out of its case for a moment longer than necessary. I’m temporarily quite grateful for the flooded lockers, as the extra ballast has, I’m sure, saved me from several knockdowns today. There have been too many close calls for comfort. There seems to be a temporary lull (relatively speaking—only 30 knots instead of 35) so I’ll make the most of it.
“I rowed for a little while this morning, but as well as high winds, it has been raining much of the day, and having raindrops flying at you at 35 mph is no joke. So I have spent most of the day confined to the cabin, doing just about everything one can do while strapped to a bunk on a small rowboat.
“I have read my one hardcopy book— “Perseverance” by Margaret Wheatley— from cover to cover. I have played Bejewelled 2 on my iPhone until I couldn’t stand any more. I have explored every app on my iPhone that will work without an Internet connection or mobile phone signal.
“And I have listened to the wind roar around my boat, and the waves slam into the side of the hull, and the rain rattle on the roof. Each time there is a near-knockdown my stomach clenches and I get that goosebumpy feeling that you get if you trip and nearly fall, or have a near miss in your car. The cabin is damp and stuffy, and I feel grimy and sticky. I can’t say it’s the most fun-filled 24 hours I’ve had in my life.
“According to the forecast, only about another 18 hours of this before the conditions start to abate slightly, and by the 18th I should be able to open up the cabin for airing, pump out the lockers, and get some fresh air into my lungs. Until then, I am counting the hours….”
(For the rest of my dispatches go to takepart.com)
One overlooked impact of the Indian Ocean piracy boom has been the inability of scientists to roam far and wide doing their thing; in this case, gathering data for climate change research and weather forecasting.
Photo: Ho New/Reuters
With attacks by pirates, especially near the Somali coast, more than doubled since 2008 it has become increasingly tricky for oceanographers and meteorologists to deploy measuring tools. Research ships report having been chased by pirates on numerous occasions. “We don’t like putting scientists at risk like that,” says Ann Thresher of the Commonwealth Science and Industrial Research Organization (CSIRO), Australia’s lead science agency.
With more than one-quarter to one-half of the Indian Ocean currently regarded as a “no go” zone, scientists are increasingly asking military ships deployed in the region—from the U.S. and Australian Navies—to help by dropping robotic floats in the danger zone. Of course, given the assignment of the naval ships—deterring and chasing pirates—it is difficult to get them to follow exact scientific routes, so the quality of information being gathered may suffer.
The ask is for the Navies to not just deploy, but monitor—i.e. protect—and retrieve the scientific tools. What are they measuring? Real-time stats on temperature, winds, currents, evaporation and more, which Australian scientists say are crucial to understanding and predicting weather back home. One major preoccupation is trying to predict monsoons and other storms, and rainfall, which is of special interest to a continent that since 2003 has endured the worst droughts on record.
Thanks partly to an increase in naval presence patrolling the coast of East Africa—ships from the EU, NATO, Russia, China, Iran, Japan and India—the mostly Somali pirates have expanded their territories east and south into the Indian Ocean and Persian Gulf. A March 2010 attack on a Turkish cargo ship occurred 1,100 miles offshore, closer to India than Africa, suggesting that the “no go” zone for science—and shipping and sailors—may continue to grow before it shrinks.
(For the rest of my dispathes go to takepart.com)
“Rescue crews rush to aid naked Irish solo adventurer.”
The headline was too horrid on so many fronts to pass up.
It turns out 29-year-old Irishman Keith Whelan, attempting to become the first of his nation to row solo across the Indian Ocean—despite having little rowing experience, just naked ambition and a Twitter account—had been slapped by a big wave 128 miles off the coast of Australia and cracked his head on a protruding bolt. After calling for help, a cargo ship, the Fujisuka—having nothing better to do—diverted course, picked him up, and delivered him back to shore at Bunbury, where he held . . . drum roll . . . a press conference.
Photo: Ho New/Reuters
How do we know all of this? Thanks to his constant tweeting and blogging and the 24/7 reach of the global media.
Before we go any further with the story of this faux adventure, why, oh why, did he opt to row naked? According to his website, it was “to avoid painful chafing from salt-encrusted clothing.” (“Having gotten into a rowing boat for the first time only a year or so beforehand, he will spend 110 days alone at sea, facing 50-foot swells, hurricane-force winds and unrelenting sunshine . . . and he’ll be naked.”)
Not to mention the attention the word naked still garners in headlines, Twitter feeds, and Google searches.
I’m not suggesting the guy shouldn’t be able to define adventure in his own terms. With most corners of the world already explored in every imaginable fashion, those who seek adventure today are forced to find new ways of doing so. People have walked up Mount Everest on behalf of every imaginable disease, attempted long walks, long rows, long sails, etc., going forwards, backwards, sideways, and upside down in efforts to draw attention to their pursuits. Whelan is hardly the first to use showmanship in support of a worthy cause to rationalize his effort. (His charity is Keep A Child Alive, for which to date he’s raised about $700 . . . out of a hoped-for $15,000.)
But there is something missing, something lackluster, about much of the “adventuring” we’re seeing in the early years of the 21st century. Rather than truly fulfilling lifelong dreams or accomplishing something brand-new (Ed Stafford’s walking the length of the Amazon stands out as a good example of a truly audacious, smart adventure) it seems all you need today is an attention-grabbing moniker, a sat phone for delivering constant updates to your blog, a charitable cause, some kind of “first” (will climbing Everest naked be next for Whelan?), a contact for “media requests,” and—succeed or fail—a now-mandatory press conference.
I’m not suggesting we go back to the days when Robert Falcon Scott and team froze to death 10 miles from a depot (texting might have actually helped keep them alive), or when the best rationale climbers could come up with for risking their lives on Himalayan peaks was “because it’s there,” but it seems there are more and more inexperienced people launching adventures these days and getting sizable attention most often for their ineptitude, thanks to the instant reach of social media.
According to his tweets, Whelan is back on shore (after a “tough day, very long” aboard the cargo ship) and “up for trying the 3,600-mile solo row again.”
Given the way this adventure started for the lad, I’d advise the “freelance events manager” from County Kildare consider a year off for further planning.
Even before being rescued, his Indian Ocean attempt suffered a variety of setbacks, beginning with severe seasickness. On May 11 he ran into trouble soon after launching and had to be rescued by a passing fishing boat, which towed him to a nearby island. After setting out again, he blogged that he was back on the mainland because strong winds and bad weather had blown him off course. Ready to depart one more time, he was alerted—by his Australian host, since he apparently hadn’t noticed himself—that the boat’s rudder was badly damaged and needed serious repair.
Before starting this misadventure, this is how Whelan explained his motivation on his website: “I am a risk taker, and risking your life to achieve a dream is the biggest risk you can take. Some might say it’s foolish, but to my mind it is only foolish if you don’t know the risks and you don’t prepare for them and train for every possible scenario.”
My question is, did he really understand the risks and was he prepared for “every possible scenario?” Or was he just being foolish?
Whelan is not the only soloist attempting to cross the Indian Ocean this season; my friend Roz Savage—who at the very least has earned her headlines by previously having rowed across the Atlantic and Pacific—is now 38 days out.
Her daily blogs often tend to focus as much on the high-tech side of modern-day adventuring—whether its her failing GPS, trickiness downloading emails, or disconnected sat phones calls “with Mum”—as the ocean world around her (the daily repetitiveness of which can, I’m sure, get very boring to post about).
Reading posts from the middle of the ocean by these modern-day adventurists makes me wonder what 140 character missives Thor Heyerdahl would have sent back from the balsa wood raft Kon Tiki in the 1940s.
“Another yellowfin committed suicide by throwing itself aboard; Bengt keeping the three of us up with incessant snoring”
(For the rest of my dispatches, go to takepart.com)
As political unrest swept through the Muslim nations of North Africa, even the remote island nation of the Maldives was caught up in its own Arab Spring in the form of political protest and street clashes.
One major difference: Efforts in the Maldives were focused on pushing out a young, democratically elected president and replacing him with an aging despot.
Photo: AFP/Getty Images
President Mohamed Nasheed, 44, has gained accolades around the globe for his commitment to preparing the Maldives for the coming impacts of climate change and simultaneously attempting to turn the country carbon neutral. Since the first of May, intermittent protests have wracked the streets of the tiny island capital of Male – just two square miles and home to 100,000 – with some calling for Nasheed’s resignation; the irony, of course, is that he is the country’s very first democratically elected leader.
As many as 5,000 protestors have been shouting not about green issues, but about homegrown concerns, including a sour economy and increases in crime and inflation. They have also complained about Nasheed’s alleged “westernization” of the traditional Islamic culture. One report has his popularity rating at just 18 percent. The military has dispersed youthful crowds with high-pressure hoses and batons.
Waiting in the wings? None other than Maumoon Abdul Gayoom, 74, whose 30-year dictatorship ended in 2008 with Nasheed’s election. Nasheed has no love lost for the former president, who still lives in the Maldives. A former journalist, activist and political prisoner, Nasheed was tortured while in prison during Gayoom’s presidency.
Many attribute today’s economic mess to the 30-year-long Gayoom administration. It’s no big surprise that it’s the previous president and his representatives who are working behind the scenes to fan the current protests.
Nasheed spokesman Mohamed Zuhair suggested to the BBC that the former president is encouraging violence in the streets. “In the Middle East, you have democrats on the streets bringing down dictatorships. Ironically, in the Maldives, the remnants of the former dictatorship are trying to bring down a democratically elected government.”
It doesn’t help that oil prices are going through the roof, since almost everything in the Maldives is imported and one quarter of its GDP is spent on oil. Tourism, which accounts for 70 percent of the Maldives economy, has been negatively impacted by the unrest.
On May 25 the government proposed an agreement with representatives of the International Monetary Fund that would raise import duties, lower capital spending, freeze public sector wages, raise the tourism tax and introduce a general goods and services tax as a way to help fix some of its economic woes.
Nasheed is well known internationally for his outspokenness regarding the fate of all island nations as sea levels rise. Among his first announcements after he was elected in 2008 was that he would set aside money from tourism to help buy land to move Maldivians as sea levels rose (to India or Pakistan, maybe Australia). To draw attention to the very real impact of climate change on a nation that is barely more than six feet above sea level, he held the first underwater cabinet meeting, which garnered more than a billion global media impressions.
(For the rest of my dispatches, go to takepart.com)